"Le Petit Nice" of Languedoc

 
 

Roquebrun is set on a mountain slope at the entrance to the Haute Languedoc National Parc, about an hour's drive from the Mediterranean Sea in the Occitanie region of France. It's been a popular holiday destination among the French for decades, but is still a well kept secret among many tourists. Around 600 people live in Roquebrun all year around, but in summer, the population rises to nearly 3000. It has four restaurants, several shops and residents of 16 different nationalities. In winter, the village is quiet and peaceful. In summer, it's busy and lively.

 

A view of Roquebrun with the beach to the right. Le Nid is situated by the church at the very top of the village.

A secret passage in the oldest part of the village, just below our house.

A secret passage in the oldest part of the village, just below the house.

 

There are a few things that make Roquebrun really special. First of all, the river Orb flows through it, providing the village with its own beach. In summer, you can go swimming, snorkeling or canoeing here, from late autumn to early spring, you can fish. The Orb starts its course somewhere high up in the Massif Central, making its way through the green, rugged valley to which it has given its name before pouring into the Mediterranean.

 
The village seen from the river.

The village seen from the river.

A table on the balcony of Le Petit Nice.

A table on the balcony of Le Petit Nice.

 

The second great thing about the village is its location in the Haute Languedoc National Park. When you stay here, you are surrounded by an abundance of hiking and biking trails, rocks to climb and waters to swim in. The village is also part of the wine district Saint Chinian, with vast stretches of vineyards and local domaines to discover. A lot of the wine that is grown here, is organic. 

 
The beach is just a short stroll downhill from the house.

The beach is just a short stroll downhill from the house.

The Mediterranean Garden in Roquebrun, one if it’s main attractions.

The Mediterranean Garden in Roquebrun, one if it’s main attractions.

 

In the village you will find:

Le Petit Nice

This restaurant has been a popular destination for locals and visitors alike for decades. The menu focuses on regional produce, and the terrace offer gorgeous views of the Orb river. 

Bistro Saint Martin

This little restaurant is located in a former wine cellar and also has seating outside in the main street. It’s a little more pricy than the other restaurants in the villages, and worth it.

Le Pitalogue

In the summer you can have fresh seafood at this terrace restaurant in the main street. The menu changes with whatever the fishermen bring in.

Le Saint Hubert

French classics are on the menu at this restaurant, and their entrecôte with home made fries is the best in the village. Their interiors are warm and cosy, and they also have a large terrace. 

L’Enfant Terrible

This lively bar and tabac sells newspapers and magazine and even serves some very tasty paninis, hot dogs and fries. A great place to meet for an apéritif or a snack.

Le Naudech

The village bar is named after one of the peaks in the region, a popular trekking destination, but no one actually calls it that. It is simply "le bar", as if no other bars existed in the world. The bar is situated at the junction between the main street and the D14 that crosses the river, and is the most popular gathering place in the village.

L'Orangerie

This is the village baker, selling croissants, baguettes and Italian ice cream. They also serve coffee and soft drinks and have a nice little pergola with a few tables in the shade across the street.

La Pizzeria Roquebrunaise

In what use to be the village tourist office, you can now get home made take away pizza and pasta on most days during the summer months. There are even a couple of tables outside, if you prefer to have your pizza on site.

Vival Epicérie

The town grocery shop is large enough to cover the basics, especially in the summer. There is a slightly larger Carrefour Express in Cessenon-les-Orb and a full size Carrefour in Cazouls-les-Bézies, a twenty minute drive from the house.

Institut de beauté Divine

In rue sous les fenêtre, just off the main street, you will find this small, but exquisite beauty salon run by the friendly Ludivine. Bikini wax, eyebrow shaping, massage or a facial – you can get it all here, at very reasonable prices. For a list of treatments, click here.

Mon bel oranger

This shop in a cave in the main street is a collective of local artisans that sell their work together. You will find ceramics, wicker products and jewlery, among other things.

Food market

Every Friday morning, there is a small food market by the park near the river. Though it is inferior in size to the large Sunday market in nearby Saint Chinian, you can get great meat here and a variety of cheese, oils, spices and vegetables. There are also a few artisans selling linens, clothing and decorative objects. If you need a haircut, a local barber comes here with his van and cuts hair on site.

Cave les vins

This is the local wine cooperative, which is the way wine has been made for centuries in Occitanie. Although there has been a real change in quality over the past decades, the Cave les vins de Roquebrun is still a hub for local winegrowers and you can sample them all here.

Basket ball court and skate park

The village recently built this area for youngsters who like to skate and play basketball, which is fenced in so that the ball doesn’t go flying into the river. You will find the area below the market place, and it is open to anyone who wants to play.