The other South of France

If I had to pick one word that describes Languedoc, it would be openness. Openness in terms of the landscape, with wide, rolling vineyards and vast beaches stretching all the way from the marshlands of the Camargue to the Spanish border. But also in the openness of its people, who are warm and friendly in a no-nonsense kind of way. Unlike in many other parts of France, they make you feel less like a visitor, more like an actual guest, which is perhaps explained by the fact that most tourists to the region have traditionally been French.

For centuries this was one of the poorest regions in France, invaded by pretty much everyone from the Romans and the Greeks to Protestants from the North. Languedoc lived through it all, supplying both friends and foes with an astonishing amount of cheap table wine. Today, the region has transformed itself into a an area of rich gastronomy, award winning wines and prospering towns. You can drive for hours through the vineyards and suddenly stumble upon a spa hotel, an organic village or a chic bed and breakfast run by Swedes. 

I've often heard it said that Languedoc is like Provence was 50 years ago, but I don’t know if that’s true. I think the Riviera always had its stars and jet set, its Ferraris and designer handbags, whereas you will find little of this in Occitanie. The atmosphere is relaxed and joyful – my neighbour in Roquebrun once told me that he and his family stumbled into a three star Michelin restaurant in a tiny village in flip flops and swim shorts after a day on the beach. No one turned them away or offered them a jacket and tie, just a glass of wine and a menu.

There’s a real variety to the landscape here, from the flat beaches of the coast to the curvy hills of the Haute Languedoc Nature Park. If you visit the Lac du Salagou, you’ll think you’ve discovered water on the moon. The Canal du Midi will remind you of Belgium or the Netherlands with its bike lanes and barges and Montpellier will make you think of Paris, only sunnier and with younger people. No matter what you wish to do here – take a mini break, find a holiday home or grow your own wine, the variety make it possible to find the spot that is just right for you.